2005.07.18
Wounded! Ow, it Hurts
I suffered my first actual surfing mishap while not surfing. Saturday afternoon the water in Bolinas was horrible for surfing but surprisingly warm. I put my board up on the beach and went for a swim. The tide was in and waves were crashing right in the shore. Just my luck while coming in I stepped in a hole of some sort just as a wave hit me from behind throwing me forward.
Now my right foot is cut up and scraped quite nicely. Yesterday I was limping but today, aside from the hot water in the shower, it’s OK. It’s still raw and looks like a shark bit, but I’m getting around. I just can’t wear shoes. Work will be interesting tomorrow…
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